We've travelled the world together, but Parma caught us completely off guard. It's become our quiet obsession – the place we’re dreaming up excuses to return to. Picture it: a late spring morning, cycling through streets untouched by time. Tommaso turns to me and says, "this is what Italy feels like when it can still breathe."

Parma lives blissfully beyond the chaos of overtourism. Of course, it’s known globally as the gastronomic capital – the birthplace of Parmigiano-Reggiano and Prosciutto di Parma. But food is only the beginning. This is a city of Renaissance treasures and architectural marvels, of cultural secrets that rival any in Italy. It’s slow living at its most refined, where bold flavours meet quiet masterpieces around every cobbled corner.

Curious to see more? See our full Parma journey here.

Beyond its legendary cuisine lies a cultural trove few talk about. Yes, the food heritage spans centuries, but so too do the frescoed domes, Renaissance castles and world-class opera houses. It’s Italy without the circus. Picture wandering through one of the country’s most beautiful castles without jostling for photo angles, or having UNESCO-listed sites almost entirely to yourself.

The pace here will gently recalibrate your soul: café tables spill onto sun-drenched piazzas, the aroma of good food fills the air, and locals converse for hours upon hours.

• Ai Due Platani – We watched them roll pasta by hand, and the gelato is churned on-site. Francesca almost cried over the crema flavour. Almost.

• Pepèn – This is where locals eat, and they welcomed us like old friends. The Carciofa – a savoury pie with artichokes and prosciutto – made us understand exactly why Italians take their food so seriously.

• Limonaia Roncolo – When you’re in the mood for something elegant, this is your spot. Contemporary Emilian cuisine with views over the plains. We almost forgot we weren't in Tuscany.

• Parma Menù at Fidenza Village – A love letter to Emilia on a plate: culatello, tortafritta and a carbonara topped with culatello crumble that sounds outrageous but tastes like pure genius.

• Signorvino at Fidenza Village – Aperitivo is Italy’s answer to teatime, but with wine. We spent a golden hour here, with focaccia, cured meats and the slow melt of the day around us.

• Vero Latte at Fidenza Village – This is what crema is meant to taste like. No shortcuts, just honest ingredients and pure flavour. It’s no surprise it was named one of the best ice creams in Europe.

Unsurprisingly, in Emilia, wherever you stop, you’ll eat well — here’s the full list of restaurants at Fidenza Village.

• Torrechiara Castle – Quite possibly Italy's most beautiful castle. Nestled among vineyards, its Camera d'Oro is pure Renaissance perfection. Tommaso spent an hour just staring at the frescoes.

• Teatro Farnese – An all-wooden theatre that left us speechless. One of those rare moments where you step inside and time simply stops.

• Galleria Nazionale – Parma's answer to the Uffizi, minus the crowds. Leonardo's "La Scapigliata" – arguably his most beautiful drawing – is here, and you can actually get close enough to see every delicate line.

• Biblioteca Palatina – For fellow book lovers, this centuries-old library filled with rare manuscripts feels like stepping into another era.

• Teatro Regio – A true temple to Italian Opera, all golden stuccoes and red velvet tapestries. It hosts the prestigious Festival Verdi each year – and you can feel the reverence in the air.

• Reggia di Colorno – Locals call it "Little Versailles", and honestly? The gardens alone are worth the trip.

• Parma's Old Town – We spent an entire afternoon getting lost here. Antique shops, vintage boutiques, bookshops where time disappears. A quiet kind of magic.

• Parma Cathedral and Baptistery – UNESCO sites that fill you with wonder. The spiritual and artistic energy here is palpable.

• The Masone Labyrinth – The world's largest bamboo maze, concealing an eccentric private art collection.

Venturini Baldini – You know those movie scenes with long, cypress-lined driveway leading to a dream estate? This is that, but real. Boutique luxury nestled in the Emilian countryside, where silence turns to gold. Their balsamic vinegar tasting in its centuries-old acetaia isn't just a tasting – it's a sensory journey through time.

Parma rewards curiosity. It's a city that unfolds slowly, revealing layers far beyond its culinary renown. Spring and summer here feel truly magical – morning light spilling over Renaissance palazzi, jasmine-scented air and bikes gliding past perfectly imperfect facades.

You won't be rushed. You won't jostle with crowds. You'll simply...exist. In the most beautiful way imaginable.

• Best time to visit: Late spring to early autumn, for that perfect golden light

• Getting there: Well-connected by train from major Italian cities

• How long to stay: Allow at least 3 to 4 days to truly soak it all in

• Language: Italian is helpful but not essential – the locals appreciate any effort